What You Need to Know about Climbing Mt. Shasta in Northern California

You’ve been contemplating the idea of heading to Northern California to conquer Mt. Shasta, but you’re wondering where to start. What should you know before embarking on this climbing adventure? Read on to find out.

Get to Know Mt. Shasta

Part of the National Wilderness Preservation System, Mt. Shasta, at 14,179 feet above sea level, is the fifth-highest peak in the Golden State and the second-highest in the Cascades. Due to its elevation, weather and terrain can be unpredictable.

For an efficient and safe journey, you should climb when there is a good amount of snow coverage. When the snow melts, rocks begin to fall and the ground is covered in loose gravel, which can lead to unstable footing and an unsafe environment. This means the late summer is the most hazardous time to climb. Winter climbs are possible, but dangerous and should only be attempted by the most experienced technical climbers.

Routes to the Top

There are no certified trails that lead to the summit of Mt. Shasta. All climbing is done on off-trail paths. However, various trailheads lead to the most common climbing routes. Your choice of climbing route will depend upon the weather. Each one has a season when conditions are ideal.

Bunny Flat Trailhead, which accesses all routes, is on the mountain’s south side and tends to be very busy. Most roads leading to Bunny Flat are plowed and are cared for all winter. It takes about five to six miles to reach the summit of Mt. Shasta from Bunny Flat, with an elevation gain of over 7,000 feet.

The most manageable route is Avalanche Gulch, which also makes it the preferred choice for summitting Mt. Shasta. You can access this non-technical option on the south side of the mountain. Most climbers prefer to take Avalanche Gulch between mid-May and mid-July at the latest.

A good alternative to Avalanche Gulch is the second most preferred route, Clear Creek. June is the safest month for Clear Creek. There is less late-summer rockfall here than on Avalanche Gulch, but the early snowmelt can add some challenges to your climb.

If you’re looking to test your technical climbing skills, Cascade Gulch and West Face Gully are two routes that you can choose from. The Cascade Gulch route provides you with a tougher climb and crosses the upper Whitney Glacier. West Face Gully is a harder non-technical route, with some steep sections. It is usually a good idea to access either of these routes from mid-May to late June.

How Long Does It Take?

The time it takes to climb Mt. Shasta is contingent upon the weather, the route selected, and your fitness level. Generally speaking, experienced climbers average 8-10 hours for the ascent and 4-5 hours for the descent back to the trailhead.

A climber in good physical and medical condition can make the climb in one day. However, an early start and two days are highly recommended. For camping options, the Avalanche Gulch route is your best bet, since it has two established campsites: the Sierra Club’s Horse Camp at almost 7,900 feet in elevation and Helen Lake at 10,400 feet.

Costs and Permits

If you camp at Horse Camp, the Sierra Club request donations between $3 and $5 to help cover the costs of amenities and supplies offered (while available). Free human waste pack-out bags are provided at all trailheads and the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations.

Your standard summit pass of $25 per person is good for up to three days from the date of purchase. For an additional $5, you can upgrade to the Mt. Shasta Annual Summit Pass, an obvious choice if you plan on climbing more than once a year.

Every individual entering the Mt. Shasta Wilderness will need to fill out a Wilderness Permit, but they are free of charge and available at all trailheads. The rangers ask that you leave the white copy in the permit book and take the green copy with you. Make sure you have both your Summit Pass and Wilderness Permit before climbing the mountain.

Necessary Gear

For a safe and enjoyable climb, make sure your equipment includes crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, map, compass, flashlight, extra food, water, extra warm clothing, sunglasses, sunscreen, matches, light-weight stove, pot (for melting snow if you need water), a first aid kit, locator detector, and fully-charged cell phone.

There are two stores in the nearby town of Mt. Shasta to rent gear and stock up on necessary provisions.

Safety

Make note that there are no campfires allowed anywhere in, on, near, or around the Mt. Shasta Wilderness area. Your canine friend has to stay home, too.

Keep yourself in the loop and call the ranger station before embarking on your climbing expedition. Closures and drastic weather changes can affect routes and make the climb unsafe or impossible. The most up-to-date information can be obtained by contacting the professionals who work there. It’s also a good idea to let a friend or family member know where you will be in case of an emergency.

Start Planning Your Climb

This roughly 15,000-year-old ice-topped volcano is highly sought after by those seeking beautiful vistas, self-reflection, spiritual healing, clarity, and adventure. Being well-prepared is the key to staying safe and rewarding yourself with the bragging rights of climbing Mt. Shasta.