The United States is blessed with a variety of great rock-climbing destinations. While it’s true that the western part of the country gets most of the attention thanks to places like Yosemite and Joshua Tree, the following five spots east of the Mississippi also offer world-class climbing, often with fewer crowds.
1. Horseshoe Canyon, Arkansas
The surreal sandstone at this Arkansas destination draws sport climbers from around the country. The attraction is especially popular during Horseshoe Hell, an annual rock-climbing festival in which teams of climbers compete against one another in endurance challenges.
The majority of Horseshoe Canyon’s hundreds of routes are fully bolted sport climbs, making the crag akin to an outdoor gym. The difficulty levels range from approximately 5.5 to 5.14, with notable routes including the 5.12a-rated Fat Hand, the 5.10b-rated Commodus, and the 5.8-rated Green Goblin. Many of the routes, while short, are interesting, and even if you decide you don’t like a particular climb, the density of climbing means there’s another option close by.
While Horseshoe Canyon is known as a sport-climbing destination, trad climbers and boulders will also find fun options here. Trad climbers and boulders are also welcome at Horseshoe Hell, where they can compete and join in the general revelry for which the eclectic event is known.
2. New River Gorge, West Virginia
New River Gorge beckons climbers with more than 1,000 routes up some of the hardest, smoothest sandstone in the world. Steep, sport, splitter cracks—there’s all this and more at this West Virginia destination, located just outside of Fayetteville.
Approaches to the cliffs, which range from 40 feet to 150 feet, typically take about 15 minutes, a significant commitment for anyone other than the most dedicated climbers. In addition, the climbs themselves are difficult. All of this is to say that New River Gorge is not a place for beginners.
New River Gorge’s popular routes—which include the 5.8-rated Mrs. Field’s Follies, the 5.10b-rated Burning Calves, and the 5.13a-rated Apollo Reed—tend to get busy during the peak fall and spring seasons. However, with more than 60 miles of cliff line, it’s easy to find a far-off crag where you can climb in peace.
3. Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Climbers may debate forever as to whether New River Gorge or Red River Gorge is the superior climbing destination. Comparisons between the two arise due to their location: they’re only about an hour’s drive apart. Fortunately for climbers, the proximity means you can check out both on a single trip.
Where “The Red” has a decided advantage is in regards to quantity: there are more than 2,000 routes here. And while it boasts some of the most challenging climbs in the country—among them the 5.14/5.15a-rated Southern Smoke Direct—there are plenty of options for non-experts, including beginners. Sport climbers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to test their skills on single-pitched bolted routes like Pure Imagination and the Golden Ticket, each of which rank among the best sport climbs in the world.
Before heading home, visitors shouldn’t miss the opportunity to stop in at Miguel’s, located in the nearby town of Slade. A pizza place that doubles as a climbing shop, it is the epicenter of the local climbing community.
4. Rumney, New Hampshire
The best sport climbing in the Northeast can found on a cluster of small, irregular cliffs on the southwestern border of the White River National Forest. Made of schist, a metamorphic rock which is both strong and grippy, the cliffs are home to a variety of unique routes for climbers of all levels.
Rather than traveling up open faces, Rumney’s bolted routes take circuitous paths through aretes, cracks, and corners, meaning that climbing here is a test of your mental and physical strength. Thanks to a dedicated climbing community, the routes are well maintained.
Rumney boasts short approach times, meaning that you can maximize your climbing opportunities. These opportunities include three of the most challenging climbs in the country, including the 5.15a-rated Jaws II.
5. Shawangunks, New York
Even the most confident trad climbers may find themselves humbled at “The Gunks,” located 90 miles north of New York City near New Paltz, New York. With deceptively stiff grades, complicated horizontal breaks, and vertigo-inducing exposure, it’s easy to see why so many find it daunting. While many climbers will be tempted to explore on their own, experts advise hiring a guide in order to familiarize yourself with the terrain.
The history of the Gunks dates back to the 1930s and ‘40, when the earliest routes, including the 5.6-rated High Exposure, were opened. Decades later, in the ’60,’ 70s, and ‘80s, a group of daredevil climbers known as the Vulgarians expanded the number of ascents. Today, the Gunks boasts more than 1,000 routes, many of which are discussed with reverence by local climbers.
Along with the deceptive grades—it’s not uncommon for climbers to have to go down several ratings when selecting an ascent—another reason to hire a guide is to avoid accidentally crossing into closed areas. Parts of the Gunks sits near private property, and climbing on some routes is prohibited during breeding season for peregrine falcons.